The Pre-Shave Ritual 101

Photo by Renee_Olmsted_Photography from Pixabay

The pre-shaving ritual is the fundamental foundation for a closer shave and the most comfortable shave possible. Shaving is a ceremony, a time for introspection, a moment to strategize the conquests of the day, and one of the most relaxing and important steps to traditional grooming you should not miss.

Most men will go through a lifetime with the same shaving routine without ever getting that oh-so-wonderful barbershop shave that has helped guys hone their dapper looks for decades, because using a cartridge razor just won't cut it. Properly prepping your beard and adding a skincare regimen is undoubtedly something you should do every day before you put any tool in your hand and start shaving.

Any experienced traditional wet shaver will tell you that getting a closer shave with any tool, whether it's a straight razor or safety razor, is part art and part science. Even the best shaving products won't make up for a mediocre pre-shave routine. Yes, it is more delicate and slower than dry shaving. However, taking a few moments for proper preparation is an essential part of the professional shave process, especially if a comfortable and flawless shave is your goal.

The purpose of a pre-shave ritual is ultimately to build a solid foundation for a great shave, prep skin, soften facial hair, and protect your skin from the beatings from prolonged water exposure and the micro-abrasions from a blade’s cutthroat edge.

• Your Pre-Shave Ritual Checklist
  • Pre-Shave Routine 101: What You Will Learn
• Pre-Shave Shaving Ritual Skincare Regimen
• Pre-Shave Facial Cleansing and Exfoliation
• Hot Towel Prep to Soften Facial Hair
• Pre-Shave Oil and Application
• How to Choose a Shaving Brush
• Lathering Shave Soap or Shaving Cream
  • Applying the Lather
• Prepping Your Shaving Tool
• Shower or Shave First?
• How to Manage Ingrown Hair and Razor Burn
• How to Deal with Nicks and Cuts
• The Key Takeaways

Your Pre-Shave Ritual Checklist

A smooth shave starts with the right pre-shave ritual.
Photo by GDJ from Pixabay

• A hot towel or a warm towel for those with sensitive skin
• High-quality pre-shave oil, pre-shave balm, or gel
• A mild facial cleansing product
• Essential but optional is a beard shampoo to condition hair and the skin
• A manly yet luxurious soap; shaving cream is also great
• Your preferred shaving brush
• A shaving bowl or scuttle
• Aftershave balm, post-shave balm, or shave tonic for a cooling burst
• Moisturizer

Pre-Shave Routine 101: What You Will Learn

• How to prepare your skin for wet shaving
• How to choose a shaving brush that is right for you
• Proper lathering techniques
• How to manage skin irritation, ingrown hairs, and relieve and avoid razor burn
• Dealing with thick or coarse facial hair
  
• Learning how to shave in the direction the hair grows
• Learning how to prevent and treat nicks, cuts, and extreme irritation
• Prepping your shaving equipment and keeping your razors sharp
  

Pre-Shave Shaving Ritual Skincare Regimen

Cleanse, warm, and condition your skin with pre-shave oils before lathering up.
Photo by chiociolla on Depositphotos

Your post-shaving technique results heavily rely on your pre-shave ritual, which creates an additional layer that protects your skin from dehydration, overexposure to moisture, razor burn, and the edge of your razor of choice.

Here is how you should prepare your skin for wet shaving:

1. Wash and cleanse your face with water and your trusted facial wash.
2. Warm your face and beard by running hot water through a towel and then gently applying it to the surface you want to shave for at least 30 seconds.
3. Apply a few drops of pre-shave oil to your palm and massage it on the area you want to shave (if you’re shaving unmentionable sensitive regions, avoid pre-shave oils with eucalyptus oil or menthol, you’re welcome)
4. Prepare your shaving soap, shaving cream, or lather while waiting for your skin or beard to soak in the pre-shave oil.
5. Use your shaving brush to apply the lather to your face, using a circular motion to gently exfoliate the surface and lift the hair from the skin.

Pre-Shave Facial Cleansing and Exfoliation

Cleansing and exfoliation keep your skin fresh, healthy, and shave-ready.
Photo by everett225 on Depositphotos

Shaving causes microabrasions, or microscopic cuts, on the skin’s surface. Cleansing and exfoliation help sterilize your skin. Most post-shave irritations, such as razor bumps, occur when dirt and bacteria enter these open cuts.

Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells and helps lift facial follicles, an essential step to getting a baby-butt smooth shave. Every day, we shed 30,000 to 40,000 dead skin cells¹, which can accumulate on the skin and clog up your razor, potentially robbing you of a great shave.

An ounce of prevention goes a long way. Clean your face before shaving with a mild cleanser, which helps with exfoliation. Mild is the key term here because harsh soaps can strip away the natural oils of your face. Wash gently with warm water to soften dead skin cells. Gently massage a hot towel on your face or use a gentle circular motion while creating lather, and then rinse thoroughly with cold water. After, pat dry with your favorite shaving towels.

Remember to avoid chemical exfoliators, as they can irritate your skin further.

Hot Towel Prep to Soften Facial Hair

A hot towel softens facial hair and preps your skin for a smoother shave.
Photo by Renee_Olmsted_Photography from Pixabay

You may have heard how hot water opens the pores from several skincare gurus. However, this is a myth². Pores are nothing but tiny openings on the skin that cannot open or close because they are not muscles.

Applying a hot towel to the skin for at least 30 seconds does not open the pores. Instead, it clears the pores of dirt, dead skin cells, and sebum debris clogging its opening. As a result, the pores look more pronounced.

Using a pre-shave oil will condition hair and soften facial hair, making it easier for the razor to lift, glide, and cut facial hair close to the skin level.

Pre-Shave Oil and Application

Condition your skin and soften stubble with Taylor of Old Bond Street Sandalwood Pre-Shave Oil for a smoother, irritation-free shave.
Photo by Taylor of Old Bond Street

Pre-shave oil, commonly known as shaving oil, often contains natural ingredients such as aloe vera and Vitamin E that help prevent inflammation, thereby reducing razor burn.

Pre-shave oils, gels, and lotions are excellent for keeping your skin hydrated during prolonged water exposure because they create a hydrophobic barrier between the shaving lather and your skin.

Many wet shavers skip this step, deeming it unnecessary. The Art of Shaving³ states that this is an initial step, a trademark of its “four elements of the ideal shave.” However, if you are a newbie shaver, it is advisable to add this to your pre-shave ritual and see how it benefits your skin personally. Later on, you can decide whether it's right for your skin type.

Look for shaving products that combine a blend of highly moisturizing carrier oils, such as olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, hemp oil, and coconut oil, with nourishing essential oils for ultimate skin benefits. Got sensitive skin? Look for a sensitive skin formula with calming green tea and oat extract, and you will get the best old-world quality with modern style.

Note that a little goes a long way with oils. Pre-shave oils are thicker and more viscous in consistency and should be used sparingly.

Apply a few drops to your palm and rub them together before massaging the mixture onto your skin and beard.

How to Choose a Shaving Brush

Lather with ease using the Naked Armor Sandalwood Synthetic Shaving Brush.

Shaving brushes have a long history and tradition. Shaving brush knots come from either badger, boar, horse, or synthetic hair. Among all these, which is the best?

Shaving brushes are not as complicated as double-edge safety or straight-edge razors. However, several factors must be considered, including shaving routine and skin type.

The knot size or knot diameter indicates the amount of hair that has been packed into the handle. A larger knot retains more water and feels firmer against the skin. The length from the brush tip determines the loft, and a larger loft retains more water, making it easier to lather up larger areas. A shaving brush with a longer loft also has more flex in the bristles, which is softer against the skin. A shorter loft will provide more stability to the bristles and a stiffer-feeling brush. Each has its own softness and water retention properties.

If you have sensitive skin, consider avoiding shaving brushes with natural bristles. This type of shaving brush may irritate your skin more, as it is often bleached or treated with chemicals that can have an unpleasant odor.

The most important way to choose a shaving brush is as unique as you are. Choose one that feels comfortable on your skin, something that is neither too soft and flexible nor too coarse and stiff. The best way to tell if a shaving brush is right for you is to review its performance one month after it has been broken in.

If you are a beginner, you can use synthetic brushes, as they are easy to find and more affordable compared to premium, luxury shaving brushes.

Lathering Shave Soap or Shaving Cream

A luxurious soap or high-quality shaving cream works best when it's whipped into a thick, generous lather. Always purchase a high-quality soap, as it is formulated to remove dirt and grime without stripping your skin of its natural oils. Avoid those canned creams. They may be convenient, but they are not the best for your skin or the environment. If space saving is a concern or you often travel, most of your favorite brands offer different sizes and travel-friendly options.

To lather shaving soap, you will need three things: a puck of shaving soap, a shaving brush, and a shaving scuttle or bowl.

Here is a simplified guide on how to lather shave soap:

1. Add a few drops of water to the top surface of the soap.
2. Swirl the brush on top to get some of the soap.
3. Put a small amount of warm water in the lower chamber of your scuttle or bowl. You can add more as needed.
4. Whip until you get your preferred consistency. A good tip is that if your brush and lather create a suction when you lift it from your face, the lather is a perfect consistency.
5. Keep a water-filled spray bottle handy to lightly rehydrate your lather when needed.

If you're on the fence between shaving soap and shaving cream, the never-ending question of which is best, you can read more in-depth on the subject in our post Shaving Soap or Shaving Cream?.

Applying the Lather

The best way to apply lather to the face for wet shaving is to scoop it from the scuttle or bowl and swirl it into the skin using a circular motion. The bristles of the shaving brush will gently exfoliate the skin and lift the hair from the surface, and prepare your facial hair for shaving. Ultimately, you should have an evenly applied lather to help your razor glide smoothly.

Once the lather is on your face, you can refer to your printed face mapping guide. Draw the guiding lines on the lather using your finger to help determine the shaving direction that will yield a more efficient shaving process. Make sure to clean and dry your brush correctly to avoid it from getting disintegrated.

Prepping Your Shaving Tool

Prep your razor properly to avoid irritation and nicks.
Photo by haveseen on Depositphotos

The razor you choose is the paintbrush that will define how well you will look after shaving, and is the key to the best shave you can get. So much goes into preparing the skin to achieve the best shave of your life, but if you don't, it will all lead to disappointing results, and you'll have to deal with constant razor burn. Never use a dull blade. If you're unsure about how to prepare your shaving tool or how to keep your razor blade sharp, read our guide.

For those using a straight razor, honing and stropping your straight-edge blade on abrasive leather is essential for preparing your shaving tool for use. Stropping realigns any burrs or microscopic chips that can interfere with a smooth shave, causing irritation, nicks, and cuts.

If you have ditched those environmentally unfriendly cartridge razors and are using a classic double-edge safety razor to prep your wet shave tool, never use a dull blade. You should replace your safety razor blades every 3 to 5 shaves and keep your razor sterile and away from constant moisture. The key here is to always start with light pressure—too much pressure is where things go wrong and fast.

Shower or Shave First?

Hot water—or long showers at any temperature—removes essential oils from your skin, making your shave less comfortable. That said, you still want to use soap on your face, but in this case, a mild cleanser is best because it doesn't strip away too much oil.

If you love having a clean-shaven face at all times, you surely know the inconvenience of shaving every day. Your best solution is to find a shortcut to getting a quick shave. With that, should you shave before showering or shower and then shave? Or would you rather shave in the shower?

Shaving before taking a shower is like washing your face, then taking a shower. It is repetitive and unnecessary—especially if you are wet shaving. However, if you are using clippers, it is okay to dry shave before taking a shower, as the latter helps clean off any fallen hair.

Meanwhile, it would be best to shower before shaving for wet shavers. Considering the pre-shave ritual mentioned before, a hot shower softens the hair and clears the pores for a smoother and more hygienic shaving experience.

How to Manage Ingrown Hair and Razor Burn

There is no shame in experiencing skin irritation, ingrown hairs, and razor burn as a beginner. Even expert shavers still occasionally encounter this issue. Nonetheless, do not stick to your routine if it continues to cause you problems.

Here’s how to avoid and manage ingrown hair and razor burn:

• Pre-shave prep
  Do a hot towel steam, exfoliate, and apply a natural pre-shave oil.
  
  
• During your shave
  Follow the grain on your first pass and let the razor's weight do the work. This reduces razor burn and ingrown hairs.
  
  
• Post shave
  Always wash off excess lather and hair debris, and apply an aftershave product.
  
  
• Calm inflammation
  Apply a potassium alum block, which is a natural antiseptic and astringent. An alum block is a wet shaver's best friend, providing a cooling burst of relief after a shave and helping to reduce inflammation.

How to Deal with Nicks and Cuts

Sometimes, nicks and cuts are inevitable, despite the care and effort you put into your shaving routine. The best way to deal with nicks and cuts is to treat⁴ them as soon as possible with the following remedies:

• Firm pressure
  Press your clean finger over the cut and apply firm pressure.
  
  
• Cold compress
  Hold an ice cube or a cold compress above the area and press firmly.
  
  
• Witch hazel
  Use it as a toner on the bleeding area only for minor nicks and cuts; it is also another natural option vs. alcohol.
  
  
• Aftershave balm
  Seal the open shaving cut with a natural, unscented, alcohol-free balm.
  
  
• Styptic pencil or alum blocks
  Styptic pencils stop bleeding by coagulating blood on the surface of a wound, just like a scab. Alum blocks use the same materials for first aid and can also be found in pencil formats. Styptic pencils are formulated with aluminum salts, such as aluminum sulfate, potassium aluminum sulfate, or sodium aluminum sulfate. In contrast, an alum block is made purely from potassium alum, a naturally occurring mineral and composite known for its antiseptic and astringent properties.

If the bleeding does not subside despite first-aid treatments for shaving nicks and cuts, consult a doctor.

The Key Takeaways

A real grown man's shave could never be without a proper pre-shave ritual. At Naked Armor, our ethos is to elevate men's modern style, break down each element of a shave, and compile decades worth of experience to guide you through your journey from the beginner to aficionado in our Traditional Wet Shaving Guides. A professional shave at home is easy to achieve, and the pre-shave ritual is vital for that baby-butt smooth shave. Indulge in the true benefits that wet shaving has to offer!

Related Articles

Is Using Witch Hazel After Shaving Safe?
Simple Techniques to Keeping a Straight Razor Sharp
Guide to Traditional Wet Shaving

References

1. Your Skin. (2023, January). Nemours KidsHealth. https://kidshealth.org/en/kids/skin.html
2. Whitmore, E. (2009, August 20). Do Pores Open Wider in Hot Water? HowStuffWorks. https://health.howstuffworks.com/skin-care/cleansing/myths/pores-in-hotter-water.htm
3. PROFESSIONAL TIPS FROM OUR MASTER BARBERS. (n.d.). The Art of Shaving. https://www.theartofshaving.com/barbers-tips/
4. Hurly, A. (2022, March 11). How to Stop a Shaving Cut from Bleeding. GQ. https://www.gq.com/story/stop-bleeding-shaving-cut