The Beginner's Guide to Shaving with a Double-Edge Safety Razor

Photo by Iren_Miller on Depositphotos

Are you wondering how to use a safety razor? The first few times we used a safety razor were purely experimental, and it resulted in a few bathroom bloodbath scenes before we got it just right. Well, bloodbath is the wrong way to describe it; let's just say we cut ourselves a few times shaving with a safety razor. We don't want that to happen to you, so we created this beginner's guide to double-edge safety razors.

Shaving with a safety razor is an incredible feeling. Whether you're making a change from disposable razors or electric razors, or you're new to wet shaving altogether, this article will help you get started shaving with a safety razor in several ways:

1. Learn to choose your first safety razor
2. Know the basics of how to use a safety razor
3. Learn how to store your safety razor
4. Learn safety razor tips

The fine edge of just one good blade flawlessly slices each follicle at just the right point, leaving your chin and cheeks smooth and in a smiling position. It is so immensely satisfying that you might build a routine around it. Generations of men have, we have, and a new crop of men are too.

Why so? Because shaving isn't just grooming, it's how you spend your time. And with a safety razor, it's a pause from the everyday.

• What is a Double-Edge Safety Razor?
• Safety Razor Quick History
• How to Choose the Right Traditional Safety Razor for You
• The Different Features of Safety Razors Explained
  • Which is the Best Safety Razor: One, Two, or Three-Piece?
    • One-Piece Safety Razor: The Butterfly
    • Two-Piece Safety Razor
    • Three-Piece Safety Razor
  • Open Comb Vs. Closed Comb Safety Razors
  • Fixed or Adjustable Razors?
  • Razor Handle Length
  • Handle Material and Texture
  • Weight
• Using Your Safety Razor: Techniques for Novices
• Caring for Your Safety Razor
• The Best Safety Razors for Beginners
  • Naked Armor Top 3 Best Sellers Safety Razors
  • Best Priced Safety Razor
  • Naked Armor Top 5 Safety Razor Contenders
• Frequently Asked Questions: Safety Razors

What is a Double-Edge Safety Razor?

A double-edge safety razor uses replaceable blades exposed on both sides.
Photo by Antonio Arcila on Pexels

One of the things that confused us when we just started was how people used the words "safety razor" and "double-edge razor" interchangeably.

Double-edge razors (also called DE safety razors) and safety razors are the same thing! A handheld, wet shaving device where the razor blades—referred to as double-edge razor blades—are exposed on both sides, hence the name—double-edge razors. As a side note, you'll need a good supply of blades at home to use your safety razor.

Safety Razor Quick History

We talk about double-edge razors today because, a long time ago—dating back to the 1700s—there were single-blade safety razors. These single blades were solid and sharp, but in the early 20th century, even more robust double-edge blades took over the market.

It wasn't until 1974 when Bic introduced the disposable razor that single-blade razors crept back into men's bathrooms. Who invented double-edge razors?

King Camp Gillette, founder of Gillette (not an actual King) of disposable razor fame (turns out there's more money to be made in disposables, which is fine with us because we're here for the love of the craft).

For a time, safety razors were forgotten, but in the past few years, men and women have rediscovered this magnificent shaving tool. But enough lore, talk about how using a safety razor can make your life a little better.

How to Choose the Right Traditional Safety Razor for You

9 questions to ask yourself before switching to a safety razor:

1. Are you drawn to safety razors because they’re gentler on sensitive skin and help prevent razor burn?
2. Are you tired of getting ingrown hairs every time you shave?
3. Do you want a closer shave?
4. Do you want your shave to cost less?
5. Do you want there to be less plastic in the world?
6. Do you want to make the most detailed shapes and lines with your facial hair?
7. Do you like the way a razor feels significant in your hands and innovative in your medicine cabinet?
8. Are you just looking to relax and do something good for your mind and body?
9. Do you care about the environment and your carbon footprint?

There are no wrong answers (except number five). We're here for all of it. So welcome to the world of safety razors, and congratulations on your desire to make a positive change in your life! Now, let's dive right into the information standing in the way of getting you started.

The Different Features of Safety Razors Explained

When buying your first few safety razors, it's best to start by understanding the different options available.

We've broken down our safety razor explanation into the parts that matter when shopping. In each description, we've got tips for beginners on how to make decisions.

Which is the Best Safety Razor: One, Two, or Three-Piece?

No, not fried chicken (though you deserve some after reading this!). Shaving!

A disposable razor has only one piece (maybe two): the handle and the cartridge. Safety razors come in different configurations, with 1, 2, or 3 pieces.

They consist of a body and a razor head that can come in one, two, or three separate pieces. And then you add the razor blade separately. That's a possible four-piece selection for your safety razor menu item. It's hard for novices to go wrong here. The differences among head designs are slight, but they can affect your comfort level.

Beginner's Tip: Unlike disposable cartridge razors, which are one-sided, both sides of a double-edge razor head can be used (hence the name). You can alternate sides of each stroke for different uses, like shaping vs. shaving, or on distinct parts of your face. How cool is that?

One-Piece Safety Razor: The Butterfly

The one-piece “butterfly” razor opens at the top for quick, easy blade changes.
Photo by luckyraccoon on Depositphotos

The one-piece safety razor is one solid instrument from top to bottom. The razor head opens like a Tesla X. The double-edge blade is placed inside, secured, and then closed. It's often called a "butterfly safety razor" because its head opens to resemble a butterfly's wings.

• Pros: Never lose parts
• Pros: Easy to clean
• Pros: Fast to change blades
• Cons: Movable parts can break after prolonged use

Beginner's Tip: A one-piece double-edge razor makes an excellent first option; inserting the blade is a cinch. One-piece safety razor design is hard to find these days.

Two-Piece Safety Razor

Two-piece safety razors are a surprise—two pieces. The body and the top separate, and the razor head comes off, allowing you to place a razor blade on the bottom of the head. Close it up, and your two-piece is ready to rock and roll.

• Pros: Easy to insert the blade
• Pros: Keeps good blade alignment
• Pros: Durable
• Cons: Shaving gunk may build up if not cleaned regularly

Beginner's Tip: Two-piece safety razors are an excellent option for beginners because they're easy to keep aligned. Edwin Jagger makes some nice two-piece safety razors.

Three-Piece Safety Razor

A classic three-piece design by Henson, built for easy cleaning, durability, and superior shaving control.
Photo by Henson Shaving

A three-piece is like a two-piece except that the bottom portion of the razor head also comes off the body. The base of the head gets unscrewed from the body, then the head is separated, a blade is inserted, aligned, and then closed back up and refastened to the body.

• Pros: Easiest to clean
• Pros: Holds blade securely in place
• Pros: Durable
• Cons: More pieces to lose, increased razor blade handling time

Beginner's Tip: Three pieces can be a little tricky because you have to align the razor blade, but try it out—you'll want to learn sometime! Just make sure you have a steady hand. The Henson collection is a great three-piece safety razor and one of our best sellers.

Open Comb Vs. Closed Comb Safety Razors

The comb factor of a safety razor refers to its aggressiveness.

The word "aggressiveness" describes how easily the razor moves over your face and how closely it cuts the hair. The less easy it is to swipe your blade over your stubble, the more aggressive the edge. But you can also call a blade that cuts close (smoothly) aggressive too.

The vast majority of people shave with a closed-comb head razor, which is the less aggressive option. The closed comb has a safety bar beneath the blade that provides some protection between the razor blade and your neck and helps reduce nicks, cuts, and razor burn.

Open comb blades are on the more aggressive side. They are made with a comb tooth beneath the blade's edge, which helps direct the hair and allows plenty of shaving cream to get inside. Guys with coarse or thick hair, worthy of a machete, sometimes prefer an open comb.

Beginner's Tip: Start with a closed-comb razor for safety, and work your way up to an open-comb head if needed.

Fixed or Adjustable Razors?

The Rex Ambassador Adjustable Safety Razor lets you fine-tune blade exposure for a customized, comfortable shave.
Photo by Rex Supply Co.

When choosing between a fixed and an adjustable razor head, it comes down to how much of the razor blade you want exposed while shaving. On a fixed-blade, blade exposure is factory-set, usually to a milder shave strength, and never changes. On an adjustable, you can change the blade exposure settings according to your preferences.

You can think about razor heads like interest rates. Fixed is better for most, but there are certain times when an adjustable rate does just the trick. Most razors are fixed, but a new breed of more user-friendly adjustable blades has been earning fans.

Beginner's Tip: Start with a fixed-blade to focus on your wet shaving technique. An adjustable comes in handy when you know precisely the settings you like, rather than having to discover them.

Razor Handle Length

Most double-edge safety razors are between 3 and 4 inches, and the difference is a matter of personal preference. If you have big hands, you're likely to feel more at home with a more extended handle, but plenty of big-palmed men use 3-inch razors. It's all about what is comfortable for you.

Beginner's Tip: Try handling a few forks and knives. If you like bigger, bulkier silverware, you might feel more comfortable with a longer blade.

Handle Material and Texture

Handles have to serve two functions: feel snug in your hand and look good on the shelf. Because they live in the bathroom, they also have to withstand corrosion due to moisture. Any material you select will accomplish both, so there's a fair amount of personal taste involved in making your selection.

Here are a few of the best materials, no matter your level:

1. Brushed Stainless Steel: has a matte, lightly textured polish
2. Chrome Finish: a layer of corrosion-resistant chrome is applied over another material, such as brass
3. High-Grade Ivory Resin: a resilient and durable synthetic material with looks to match
4. Stainless Steel: a metallic alloy that resists corrosion
5. Anodized Aluminum and Graphite: treated metals that are impervious to corrosion

It's easy to want the most beautiful razor first, but think about how it will feel in your hands. Naked Armor offers some nice wood-handled options at affordable prices.

Beginner's Tip: Textured handles will be easier to control than those with smoother surfaces.

Weight

A razor’s weight isn’t just about how heavy it feels—it affects how it shaves. With a safety razor, it's the actual force that does the shaving. Unlike disposables, where you apply pressure, with a safety razor, little to no force is needed. The weight of the instrument should lead the way.

So, if you choose a light double-edge razor, you could end up applying too much pressure, which can lead to nicks. If you go with a heavy safety razor, it could instigate an overly aggressive shave under your nose. Most safety razors are between 2 and 4 ounces, so the variance is slight. Weight distribution also comes into play. Still, as you learn more about your shaving preferences, you may favor one variation over the other.

Beginner's Tip: Even if you hold one in your hands in the store, it's not till you're a few shaves in that you'll start to get the hang of it. If you see something you love and it's possibly too light or heavy, it's okay to try it out; you might find something you really love. Start with a Safety Razor Kit.

Using Your Safety Razor: Techniques for Novices

Selecting your sword is only half the battle; now, you have to use it correctly. The good news is that even though it is a slightly different technique than with a disposable cartridge razor, DE shaving with a safety razor is just as easy to master.

You'll eventually find a technique of your own that suits your particular curves and angles, but before you can bend the rules and start shaving, you've got to learn them.

Here are the main steps for wet shaving with a double-edge razor.

1. Pre-Shave Preparation

Like with a disposable cartridge razor, you need to hydrate your hair and skin before dragging a razor blade across it. This step softens your stubble and significantly reduces the risk of skin irritation and razor burn, especially if you have sensitive skin and are looking for a close, comfortable shave.

You can prep in one step, but the optional second step can help guys with problematic skin:

1. Wet your face
   A shower gets the job done, but if you want to take things to the next level, grab a soft, wet hot towel and leave it on your face for a few minutes of bliss.
   
   
2. Pre-shave lubricant
   You can use a pre-shave oil, lotion, or gel to help pave the way for the razor blade, especially helpful for inflamed skin.

2. Lathering 101

Applying lather from a shaving cream or soap to your face makes your hair stand up so the razor can cut it down and give you a great shave. And it's easy and fun to do.

You can use a shaving cream or a soap, but there are a few different ways to lather up, ordered here from best (1) to worst (3):

1. Use a shaving brush and a bowl (or puck of shaving soap)
   This method cleans you up the most, giving you the creamiest lather, the most lift, and bonus exfoliation (shaving brushes remove dead skin cells that can cause ingrown hair). Want a hot shave? Try a shaving scuttle.
   
   
2. Directly to your face with a shaving brush
   This method works, but your lather may not be as effective as it could be.
   
   
3. Directly to your face with your hands
   Will you be able to shave? Likely. Will it hurt? Unless you've got the hair of a newborn, probably.

Lathering in a bowl or puck of shaving soap can be done in 3 simple steps:

1. First, pre-soak your brush so that it's saturated but not dripping wet.
2. Then, grab a dime-sized gob of shaving cream, drop it into a bowl (or open the canister if you have a puck), and add a few drops of water.
3. Finally, swirl it around in the cream for 30-60 seconds (about 50 revolutions) until you have a nice, buttery thick lather. You can add water and cream to adjust the consistency.

When you're done, clean and dry your brush properly to keep its quality.

Beginner's Tip: Try the bowl-and-lather method instead of bare-handing it. You'll notice a big difference. Remember to map your face with the lather to easily learn if you'll shave with or against the grain.

3. Safety Razor Shaving Stroke Technique

The central concept behind the safety razor technique is to shave with the grain first and let gravity do the work. Less drag means less irritation and enables the razor to glide while still offering a close shave.

Here's a quick cheat sheet on proper safety razor shaving techniques:

1. Hold the razor at about a 45-degree angle to your face, and use short, gentle strokes with as little pressure as possible on the first pass. This will give you a much milder shave.
2. Place the blade at the top of the area you are shaving and shave with the grain.
3. Allow it to glide down without applying pressure in the same direction.
4. Lift and turn the double-edge razor over and overlap areas with remaining hair growth using the other side of the razor blade.
5. Repeat going across the grain.
6. Optional: repeat going against the grain.

Once you feel comfortable with the razor, you'll be able to tailor a more personalized technique.

4. Post-Shave Care

You've done the hard part; now comes the cleanup. Splash some cold water on your face to wash away any lingering lather and close up your pores.

Finally, you want to clean your skin to prevent ingrown hairs and infections. Dab on an aftershave splash, lotion, gel, or tonic that contains astringents to disinfect your skin. Then seal the deal with a moisturizer to nourish your skin and keep it healthy.

Caring for Your Safety Razor

If you don't clean and care for your double-edge razor, the blade will dull more quickly, and the pieces will rust, making it hard to use.

Maintaining a sharp blade and a properly functioning double-edge razor takes a few simple steps at the end of your ritual:

1. Clean the blade
   Rinse with warm water.
   

   

2. Dry the blade
   Pat it down with a towel.
   
   
3. Disinfect
   Dab the blade edge with rubbing alcohol.
   
   
4. Apply oil to the head
   Cover the blade in baby oil or mineral oil to prevent rust.
   
   
5. Replace the DE Blade
   Replacing your razor blade once per week or two will keep your shaving routine smooth and comfortable.

Even though wet shaving involves plenty of H₂O, too much water can corrode the razor's parts, so be sure to store it in your medicine cabinet or a drawer. Avoid leaving it out in the open.

The Best Safety Razors for Beginners

We're nearing the end, but we wouldn't send you off into shave land without a little more concrete direction, so here are a few Naked Armor safety razor suggestions for beginners. First, I'll list the top three choices and our best sellers, and then we'll add a few more options to expand your selection.

Naked Armor Top 3 Best Sellers Safety Razors

1. Henson Aluminum AL13 Medium Safety Razor (review)
2. Edwin Jagger DE89 Chrome Double Edge Safety Razor (review)
3. Rex Envoy 3 Piece Safety Razor Stainless Steel
   

Best Priced Safety Razor

1. Merkur 20C Classic Long Handle Black Resin Double Edge Safety Razor

Naked Armor Top 5 Safety Razor Contenders

1. Merkur 700 Futur Adjustable Safety Razor Brushed Chrome (review)
2. Taylor of Old Bond Street Black Victorian Style Handle Safety Razor
   
3. Edwin Jagger 3ONE6 Stainless Steel Grooved Safety Razor (Pink)
   
4. Merkur 34c HD Classic Chrome Double Edge Safety Razor (review)
5. MÜHLE R41 Chrome Safety Razor Open Comb (review)
   

Henson Aluminum AL13 Medium Safety Razor

Photo by Henson Shaving

The Henson Aluminum AL13 Medium Safety Razor is made from aerospace-grade aluminum. It offers a wider blade gap than the AL13 mild razor, for those who prefer a slightly more aggressive blade or who wet shave with a medium blade gap and medium aggression. Perfect for those with coarser hair.

• Safety Bar: Closed Comb
• Aggressiveness: Medium
• Compatible with any standard DE blade

Edwin Jagger DE89 Chrome Double Edge Safety Razor

The Edwin Jagger DE89 Classic Chrome Safety Razor delivers a smooth, comfortable shave thanks to its closed-comb design and precision-balanced weight. Crafted in Sheffield, England, it features a solid brass handle with a polished chrome finish and fits any standard double-edge blade. Perfect for beginners and experienced shavers alike.

• Safety Bar: Closed Comb
• Aggressiveness: Mild-Medium
• Used with any standard double-edge (DE) replacement blades

Rex Envoy 3 Piece Safety Razor Stainless Steel

Photo by Rex Supply Co.

The precisely machined cap, guard, and handle disassemble smoothly to accommodate the shaver’s choice of most standard double-edge blades. Reassembled, the blade rests at a medium setting, the equivalent of a three on the company’s adjustable Ambassador model.

• 3 Piece Style
• Length: 3.5" (87 mm)
• Weight: 3.73 oz (106 g)
• Blade Gap: 0.025"

Merkur 20C Classic Long Handle Black Resin Double Edge Safety Razor

Photo by Merkur

The Merkur 20C Classic Double Edge Safety Razor, with an extra-long matte black handle, contrasted with a bright chrome head and accents, accentuates the 20C's elegantly diagonally ridged handle. This safety razor impresses with a sophisticated presentation.

• 3-piece razor design
• Suitable for sensitive skin
• Safety Bar: Closed Comb
• Aggressiveness: Medium

Other Safety Razors to Consider:

• Merkur 700 Futur Adjustable Safety Razor Brushed Chrome
• Taylor of Old Bond Street Black Victorian Style Handle Safety Razor
• Edwin Jagger 3ONE6 Stainless Steel Grooved Safety Razor (Pink)
  
• Merkur 34c HD Classic Chrome Double Edge Safety Razor
  
• MÜHLE R41 Chrome Safety Razor Open Comb
  

Frequently Asked Questions: Safety Razors

1. How often do I change the blade?

Most shavers will use a new blade once or twice a week. But there are a few tips and tricks to extend your blade's life.

2. How do I pick a double-edge razor blade?

Start with small packs from a variety of manufacturers until you find the one you love. We have all the main brands available here.

3. Where can I store my safety razor?

Store your safety razor using a stand or inside a case. You need to keep your safety razor dry and clean.

4. How do I stop the bleeding?

Bleeding might happen when you start out. But, you're new to this, so it's okay; even the pros do it sometimes. Use an aftershave; if that doesn't work, try an alum block; and for deep cuts, reach for a styptic pencil. Then tweak your shaving style, and if that doesn't work, you should try a different razor blade.

Here's to new beginnings and happy shaving!

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