Mapping Facial Hair Growth for Traditional Shaving

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Ask any experienced shaver, and they will tell you that mapping how your facial hair grows and identifying your hair growth patterns are the first steps to elevating your wet shaving technique for a smoother shave.

The second part of the equation is choosing the right shaving tool for your lifestyle and skin type. Regardless of whether it's a double-edge safety razor, straight razor, shaving soap, or shaving cream, understanding how your facial hair grows and its patterns can be a game-changer, delivering an irritation-free, clean shave without razor bumps, burns, and ingrown hairs.

• The Technical Art of Wet Shaving
  • Step-by-Step Wet Shaving Routine
  • Determining Facial Hair Growth
  • Shaving with the Grain Vs. Against the Grain Vs. Across the Grain
  • How to Map Your Face and Beard Grain Before Shaving
  • How Many Passes: Single Pass, a Second Pass, or Multiple Passes
  • Wet Shave Vs. Dry Shave
  • To Bow Down or Yield: How Much Pressure Should You Apply When Shaving
• Straight Razor Vs. Safety Razor Vs. Cartridge Razor
• Your Wet Shaving Checklist
• The Key Takeaways

The Technical Art of Wet Shaving

Wet shaving transforms a daily chore into a mindful, skillful ritual.

Today’s hustle culture makes most men complacent with the most convenient shaving tools and techniques. Relearning the art of traditional shaving is the key to having a baby butt smooth shaving—and it all starts with face mapping.

The history of straight razor shaving and wet shaving can be traced back to ancient times, well before modern safety razors, electric clippers, and cartridge razor systems with built-in lubricant strips. During the heyday of traditional shaving, it was a cardinal sin to use a shaving instrument on dry, unprepped skin without cream or soap. This is why, in the past, barbers were also the local surgeons and the only ones trusted to offer a great shave and traditional grooming.

The technical art of wet shaving at home is a relatively modern development, as a modern gentleman and participant in the resurgence of traditional shaving. To elevate our techniques, we must look to the past and study the inner workings of a shave for better results.

Shaving is more than just using your razor on wet skin and hair. The art of shaving for a smooth shave is a holistic, step-by-step process that starts with an excellent traditional razor and a rich, luxurious lather to help the blade glide seamlessly and achieve a skin-level shave, which you cannot get with just water. Don't worry, guys, this is gonna be fun!

Step-by-Step Wet Shaving Routine

1. If you are using a straight razor, hone and strop first. If not, skip this part.
2. Prepare your facial hair or beard and your skin by using a warm towel or taking a warm shower.
3. Apply pre-shave oil, cream, or gel to prevent skin dehydration from prolonged water exposure.
4. Bloom your shaving soap with your shaving brush and a small amount of water to hydrate the lather.
5. If you're using a scuttle, put warm water inside its bottom chamber. Otherwise, rinse the shaving bowl with warm water.
6. Whisk vigorously until you reach your desired lather consistency. A good way to test the hydration of your soap or cream is the suction method: pressing the brush against your face with the lather and slightly lifting it creates a suction cup effect. This means your lather is perfectly hydrated. Of course, you may add more water if preferred.
7. Apply the lather evenly on all areas you will shave; mapping the face will come afterward.
8. Shave your facial hair while following the map of how your hair grows on your face, and repeat the process as needed. Multiple passes are fine; just make sure to use the lightest pressure on the skin.
9. Rinse and clean the lather and hair debris off the razor blade after each pass.
10. Rinse your face.
11. Apply your post-shave care and hydration to cool and soothe your skin from any irritation.

Determining Facial Hair Growth

Your beard grows according to the specific area on the face, wherein it follows particular hair growth patterns that will determine your shaving directions. The growth starts in the upper lip area, then spreads to the sideburns, chin, cheeks, and neck. Some facial hair growth will be upward, downward, or in a circular, crop-like pattern.

The growth of your facial hair and beard determines your facial hair grain, which is unique to you. A gentleman’s facial hair and hair growth patterns are determined during the beginning of the beard growth stages. Begin by letting your facial hair grow from stubble, then observe how each strand develops on your face in each section.

But not everyone has a keen, sharp eye and the patience to check each strand of facial hair. If that seems challenging, here are more crafty ways to find out how hairs grow.

• The Playing Card Method
  Slide a playing card or a similar object, such as a credit card, against your skin with the gentlest pressure. Find the direction of your facial hair that does not shake or give any audible feedback chatter, and follow that as the direction of your hair grain.
  
  

• The Cotton Ball Method
  This is quite simple. Run a cotton ball down the pattern of facial hair growth. If it gets stuck, you’re going against the grain. If the cotton ball runs smoothly, then you're going with the grain, and that is your directional map.
  

Shaving with the Grain Vs. Against the Grain Vs. Across the Grain

Now that you've identified your grain pattern, the next challenge is deciding whether to shave with, against, or across the grain. Every man’s beard is unique, so there is no absolute rule. Even the most experienced shavers still have to reach a final decision. Truthfully, it’s a personal choice. The debate is that shaving against the grain causes more irritation by pulling the hair follicle up and away from the skin. Therefore, if you have thin skin or sensitive skin, it's best to shave with the grain.

To get you on the right path, here are the different directions of shaving:

• Shaving with the grain (WTG) - shaving while following the direction of hair growth.
• Shaving against the grain (ATG) - shaving in the opposite direction of hair growth.
• Shaving across the grain (XTG) - shaving at a 90° angle while shaving WTG or ATG.

Each strand of your beard grows at a different rate in different areas of your face. So, it is not wise to use a single shaving direction for your cheeks, chin, neck, and the area around your mouth. To ensure your shaving instrument works efficiently, map your face, follow the grain passes, and shave in the direction of growth.

Once you know the grain of your facial hair, you can proceed to face mapping.

How to Map Your Face and Beard Grain Before Shaving

1. Create a lather using your shaving soap with a brush. Ensure it is thick to facilitate the subsequent process.
2. Apply the lather on the face evenly and generously using a circular motion.
3. Lay a guideline where you can easily see it. Create lines across your face following the guidelines, using your fingers to divide each area.
4. Use the up/down and left/right arrows to determine the shaving direction for each section.

Although shaving against the grain¹ may seem like the best way to get a close shave at skin level, it is not advisable to do so on the first pass, as it is more aggressive and can result in irritation and razor burn. Instead, start shaving in the direction your hair grows, then progress to a more aggressive grain pass (WTG, ATG, XTG) to remove the leftover stubble.

The shorter stubble will be easier for the blade to cut than coarse hair. In turn, there will be fewer skin irritations and a reduced risk of razor burn, bumps, and ingrown hairs, regardless of the razor used.

How Many Passes: Single Pass, a Second Pass, or Multiple Passes

Most shavers, including beginners, think that the more they shave on a particular spot, the smoother the shave will be. Hello razor burn! But as you grow older and gain more understanding of what triggers your post-shave irritations, you start to wonder: how many passes is enough?

When it comes to shaving, is a single pass better than two or multiple passes²?

If you are shaving your facial hair with the grain, you will definitely need a second or third pass and, if preferred, against the grain to ensure there is no leftover stubble. However, you can get away with a single pass if you have a high-quality straight razor, shavette, or even an aggressive safety razor with a fresh razor-sharp blade. Still, the rule of thumb is not to go beyond three.

Wet Shave Vs. Dry Shave

Everyone dreams of a quick and irritation-free shave. Modern technology may have led men to believe that shaving is a risk-free option, with no post-shave consequences. However, unless we live in a utopian reality, those two would not just work.

The secret to things that last and stay in their prime is to keep them well-maintained. The same goes for your skin. Remember that razor blades are sharp, and shaving on unprotected skin will obviously result in nasty problems.

Wet shaving is always best if you are after a smooth and close shave. All the preparatory processes, like covering the face with a hot towel, applying pre-shave oil, and lathering, help moisturize the skin and beard. It makes the razor glide cleanly and smoothly, reducing blade-to-skin friction, resulting in an irritation-free shave and minimizing razor burn.

To Bow Down or Yield: How Much Pressure Should You Apply When Shaving

More pressure doesn't always mean a closer shave—it depends on your razor and technique. So, do know when to bow down or yield when shaving to protect your skin and prevent irritations.

Again, safety razors come in different aggressiveness. If you are after a mild shave, it is best to use an adjustable or closed-comb safety razor. The adjustable design lets you control the aggressiveness of your razor, while the closed-comb design covers more of the blade’s edge to provide a milder shave. Otherwise, opt for an open comb DE razor.

For straight razor and shavette users, let the razor do the work. Remember, you are using a cutthroat blade with an overly exposed edge. One simple mistake could lead to a bloody mess. Hence, use light pressure when shaving with a traditional single-edge blade and let gravity and the razor’s heft determine how light-handed you should be.

Straight Razor Vs. Safety Razor Vs. Cartridge Razor

Finding the right razor can make all the difference between irritation and perfection.
Photo by Gutzemberg on Depositphotos