The Anatomy of a Straight Razor
Since the dawn of time, man has used many tools to shave with. From stone and flint to clamshells, gold, and copper by the Egyptians, shaving has taken many forms.
In its evolution, straight razors or the cut-throat razor became popular in the late 1600s. The most in-demand kind was "Sheffield wares," made using highly polished steel known as "Sheffield silver steel," world-renowned for its deep, high-gloss finish still used today by Thiers Issard.
In our modern era, mid-20th-century preferences and styles changed, and the straight edge razor was replaced by the safety razor for convenience. Today, the number of wet shaving enthusiasts is making a comeback around the world, and most people have become appreciative of the time-honored tradition and benefits of the shaving ritual.
It's safe to say that since the 17th century, no person has created a more perfect shave and a more effective shaving instrument than a straight razor for your facial skin. They are your beard’s worst nightmare.
Shaving with straight razors or cut-throat razors, whether they are luxurious French blades such as Thiers Issard or precision German steel such as Dovo or Boker, is a relatively easy skill to grasp. Even for a beginner, wet shaving can be effortless once you get the hang of using one; no safety razor or disposable cartridge comes even close to giving you as good a shave.
- Why Straight Razors are Better
- The Basic Anatomy of a Straight Razor
- Sub-components
- Different Blade Sizes
- The Two Types of Straight Razors
- Wet Shaving in Practice
Why Straight Razors are Better
Straight razors offer unmatched precision, a gentler shave, and long-term savings—all while being eco-friendly.
The cutting edge of straight razors has always been better for your facial skin in several areas.
- Increased precision and control - Great control and the ability to reach small areas when wet shaving in comparison to other types of wet shaving products.
- A perfectly balanced shave - Reduces the risk of getting nicks, irritation, cuts, infections, and ingrown hairs when wet shaving.
- Cost savings and environmentally friendly - Straight razors can last a lifetime when cared for properly. In addition to having no disposable parts or cartridges, they are good for the earth.
The Basic Anatomy of a Straight Razor
The basic anatomy of a straight razor isn't that complicated either: straight razors consist of two main parts, including the straight razor handle or scale and the blade or cutting edge. However, those parts include several smaller sub-components, and each contributes to its utility and the anatomy of a straight razor.
With a bit of skill and practice, you can transform a once-be chore into a ritual that gives you a few moments to focus without interruption (just leave your phone outside the bathroom).
THE POINT
The point generally refers to where the top edge ends on the spine. Despite its name, blade points aren’t always sharpened. Look for straight razors with the following characteristics of points according to your goals and skill level.
There are 6 different types of points divided into six main groups:
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Round Point
The most commonly used is the rounded point tip, which makes it easier to avoid accidental nips, but it's still sharp enough to get pesky nose and ear hair.
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Square/Spike Point
The sharpest blade tip and is best for skilled wet shavers. The square offers the most control for small areas under the earlobe and nostrils, as well as shaping the edges of your beard.
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Barber’s Notch
An indented, round-nosed blade that makes it easier to open and is preferred by barbers, hence the nickname “Barber’s Notch”.
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Spanish Point
A unique blade with a more subtle concave notch than the tip of the barber’s point.
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French Point
A specialty blade where the point juts out from the spine at an angle to improve maneuverability around mustaches and beards.
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Hook Point
A rare cut similar to a barber’s point.
BLADE MATERIAL
Carbon, stainless, and Damascus steel—each offers a distinct edge and experience.
A good quality razor starts at the blade, and the perfect shave starts and ends with the blade material. It is one of the most important elements that most users pay attention to when it comes to straight razor shaving
There are 3 main types of steel:
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Carbon steel
It can rust and needs to be stored properly, but it is easier to sharpen and strop, and keeps a sharp edge longer.
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Stainless steel
Doesn't rust, but it can be a bit harder to sharpen and requires honing more often.
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Damascus steel
A distinctive-looking blade, akin to carbon steel, is unique to each artisan or manufacturer.
Carbon steel is the original steel used in straight razors that were made back in the 19th century. The benefit is that it is very easy to strop and keep a sharp edge. This makes it a great metal for straight razors.
The downside of carbon steel is that it lacks protection against oxidation (rust). Therefore, you need to make sure to dry your razor completely after use and store it in a cool, dry place with a light coat of camellia oil or petroleum jelly to protect the blade from moisture.
The difference between carbon steel and stainless steel is that chrome is added to the alloy to create stainless steel. Chrome makes the atomic structure of the steel coarser but protects it from oxidation.
Traditional Damascus steel is forged from at least two different alloys of steel and may not be ideal for shaving. However, the razors we carry use state-of-the-art powder metallurgical Damasteel, which is rippled together, pressed, and sintered. With this method, you receive a very fine structure of the material and a much higher share of carbide than in traditionally made steel.
BLADE GRINDS
The blade grind is a scale of razor sharpness, ranging from long and thin to short and wedged. Each level of fineness offers its own benefits depending on the hair thickness and skin sensitivity.
To see what a grind looks like, open your straight razor and look right down the barrel of the blade. Longer, thinner blades, usually referred to as “hollow,” offer more flexibility as you swipe across your face, but take more skill to wield. Wider “wedge” blades are less flexible but more forgiving of shakier hands.
Hollow grind is the most common variety of grinding method; hollows can still come in varying degrees, from full wedge to quarter hollow to full hollow. By removing more of the face, the material is more hollow and lighter. The most common varieties are quarter hollow, full hollow, and near wedge.
As the blade is usually thinner, it is relatively flexible, which means it can follow the contours of your skin more easily.
Hollow grinds are the most desirable; however, the thinner the blade, the more fragile it can be, so care needs to be taken to avoid dropping or over-sharpening, which can cause the blade to break. Sometimes hollow grindings have a belly with a slight curve, and the ridge acting as a stabilizer, across the blade. This adds support by offering greater resistance to flexing muscles. Indeed, many hollow grinds have been developed by honing a nearly imperceptible belly.
Here are the main types of thinner grinds:
- Extra Hollow “Singing”
- Full Hollow and Quarter Hollow
- Half Hollow
There are two main styles for wider grinds:
- Near Wedge
- True Wedge
SPINE
Photo by Boker
The spine of the straight razor is the opposite side of the sharp edge on the blade. The spine isn’t meant for your fingers, but some guys prefer to grip the blade this way.
TOE
Photo by Dovo
The toe is used in determining razor blade sizes, which are measured from the toe up to the spine. There is more than one type of toe, with some squared for precision and others rounded for gentleness.
The toe is usually at an angle or arc at the tip of the razor, below the blade point, and serves the same purpose as the heel. It does most of the dirty work for wet shavers in hard-to-get places.
HEEL
Photo by Dovo
The heel is at the opposite side of the toe and represents the end of the cutting edge. It serves the same purpose as the toe, and some gentlemen prefer using the heel to nab certain hard spots, but it’s not necessarily used in every shaving method. The heel varies in levels of sharpness.
CUTTING EDGE/BEVEL
Photo by Boker
The edge is the sharpest side of the blade. There are two kinds you’ll encounter in straight razor blade anatomy:
- Traditional
An edge that is a straight line from toe to heel. - Curved
Often referred to as a smile, it is curved to various degrees from the toe to the heel.
Curved razors are designed to slice rather than chop your curls, which can extend the life of the blade. Some guys also find honing a curved blade to be a little easier.
Its edge and point are responsible for the cutting of hair, while the rest of the blade parts provide a perfect grip for a haircut.
SHOULDER
Photo by Dovo
The shoulder is a small, gradual decline on the face of the blade that marks the end of the cutting edge and the start of where the blade is traditionally gripped (the tang).
They’re not found on every blade, though they can be helpful to beginners: the bulge of the shoulder makes it easier to determine where you should grip the razor while you’re shaving.
TANG
Photo by Boker
Also called the shank, the tang is the lower end of the blade, from the shoulder downward. The main part of the tang is located between the shoulder and the pivot, and lets you use finger power to control the razor. Using your thumb or fingers, you can control the pressure more easily to create just the right balance.
TAIL
Photo by Boker
The tail is the curved end of the tang, from the pivot onward. Swiping down on the tang's tail with your thumb or index finger opens the blade, but can also be used while shaving to achieve your ideal shaving pressure.
JIMPS
Photo by Boker
Not all straight razors have jimps. But those who have indentations in the tang are designed for a more stable and improved grip for your thumb and index finger. They can be found on the top and bottom sides of the tang where you might place your fingers. Most people who are new to straight razor shaving often have an easier time using a tang that comes with jimps.
FACE
Photo by Dovo
The flat surface of the blade where brands often emboss their artwork.
Sub-components
In addition to the blade, the anatomy of a straight razor is also made up of two more parts:
- Scales (the handle)
- The pivot pin
SCALE MATERIALS
Scales protect the blade, balance the shave, and bring character to every razor.
Another name for the straight razor handle, scales are designed to both cover and protect the cutting edge when not in use, add some counterweight, and look as handsome as can be in your hand.
In the anatomy of a straight razor, the scales are often thought of as the most beautiful part.
Plastic, resins, pearls, horns, and variations of wood are the most common materials used in high-quality razors. The materials are important because they lend to the blade's balance or how it is weighted in your hands as you shave.
Handle scales carefully—the chances are that if you drop your razor on the bathroom floor, you will likely crack your scales or chip your blade. Take great care to dry off your razor and/or hands after rinsing the blade under water.
Scales can be made from many different materials. Luxurious elements used in scales include:
- Desert Ironwood
- Horn
- Bone
- Curly Birch
- Ebony
- Paua
- Mother of Pearl
- Gold (especially as inlays)
Standard options for scales come in all styles, such as:
- Resin
- Carbon Fiber
- Plastic
- Cow Horn
- Faux Tortoiseshell
- Olivewood
Collectors all over the world hunt down straight razors for unique scales.
Choosing between one scale and another is largely a personal choice, and custom scales or limited edition scales can also be created for discerning shavers.
PIVOT PIN
Everything discussed in the anatomy of a straight razor relies on the work of one part: the pivot pin, the point at which the spine and the tang meet, where the blade is connected to the handle.
It should allow you to open the straight razor with ease, but also be sturdy enough to give you a balanced shave. Some brands have adjustable pivots, which give you greater control.
Different Blade Sizes
A blade is measured from the top of the grind, right below the spine, to the cutting edge, and is measured in fractions of an eighth divided into an inch. In simplistic terms, smaller blade sizes will allow you greater control for shaping and tricky maneuvers around your face, such as trimming under your nose or shaping a beard.
5/8" is the most popular blade size as it's easy to handle and move around your face. It's the most common size people reach for as they are getting started with straight razor shaving. Often, people will add a 6/8" to their collection for those that want a bit of a larger blade to straight razor handle. While not as common, serious collectors will add 3/8", 4/8", 7/8", and 8/8" razors to their collection.
The most popular sizes are:
- 5/8"
- 6/8"
For men with beards and facial hair and increased maneuverability:
- 3/8"
- 4/8"
For a little bit of fun:
- 7/8"
- 8/8"
The Two Types of Straight Razors
When you’re just starting off learning the anatomy of a straight razor, you’ll see that you can choose between two different types: a shavette or a traditional straight razor.
What’s the difference?
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Traditional straight razor
A long blade with a variety of different types of blade sizes attached by a pivot to a handle that opens and closes.
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Shavette straight razor
A traditional straight razor, where the blade is disposable and replaceable, is often used by barbers for detailed work.
It’s tempting to think of shavettes as "shave ready," a bridge between a safety razor and a straight razor, but they each provide their own type of wet shaving experience. A traditional straight razor is more balanced, but they are both sharp tools that give a great shave.
Wet Shaving in Practice
From understanding how a straight razor is ground to where it is held and about honing, you can read product descriptions to get a better idea of what to purchase from our top-selling collection.
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